tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38030653538488239562024-03-05T08:18:15.118+00:00.Paddy Cave (MIC)http://www.blogger.com/profile/07135428057983328346noreply@blogger.comBlogger114125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3803065353848823956.post-62259829978172863442014-01-22T22:54:00.000+00:002014-01-22T22:54:53.756+00:00New Blog and WebsiteWe now have a new website at <a href="http://www.mountaincircles.com/" target="_blank">Mountain Circles</a><br />
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Our new Blog will be updated with all the usual information at <a href="http://www.mountaincircles.com/blog/" target="_blank">Mountain Circles Blog</a><br />
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I'll leave this Blog on-line as an archive but will now put all updates, news and winter condition reports through the new Blog only.<br />
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For a printer friendly and updated version of the guide notes for <b>The Works Dry-tooling Venue</b>, see our Resources section on the new website where it is included as a Pdf to download, see <a href="http://www.mountaincircles.com/resources/" target="_blank">Resources Section - Mountain Circles</a>Paddy Cave (MIC)http://www.blogger.com/profile/07135428057983328346noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3803065353848823956.post-38060313058168872322014-01-21T22:17:00.002+00:002014-01-21T22:26:18.467+00:00Curved Ridge and Crowberry Tower, Buachaille 21-01-14Great day on Curved Ridge today... Plenty of wind and snow above 500m, some accumulation in <span style="font-family: Arial, Geneva, sans-serif; line-height: 17.32900047302246px;">Coire</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Geneva, sans-serif; line-height: 17.32900047302246px;"> na-</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Geneva, sans-serif; line-height: 17.32900047302246px;">tuillach but still OK. Shelf Route was also climbed today. Good hard snow and winter condition throughout on Curved Ridge. We took a short diversion onto the Crowberry Tower also.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Geneva, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 17.32900047302246px;">Definitely</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Geneva, sans-serif; line-height: 17.32900047302246px;"> winter today and looking colder tomorrow and a bit more settled.</span><br />
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Crux of Curved Ridge</div>
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Gaining the Crowberry Tower</div>
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Rannoch Wall behind</div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17.32900047302246px;">Snow bollard practice into </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17.32900047302246px;">Coire</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17.32900047302246px;"> na-</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17.32900047302246px;">tuillach</span></div>
Paddy Cave (MIC)http://www.blogger.com/profile/07135428057983328346noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3803065353848823956.post-33376946340895966942014-01-20T22:35:00.000+00:002014-01-20T22:35:03.140+00:00SCNL 20-01-14 Mountaineering CourseWe had a great day 1 to a 5 day winter mountaineering course today in Lochan, perfect snow and weather for it.<br />
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Looked over snow bollards, bucket seats, buried axe and simple pitches..<br />
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Many routes looked good despite the freeze line being around the summit. Scabbard, Dorsal, Twisting, SC and Central Buttress Ordinary route all climbed.. The Unicorn looked white if anyone's been waiting for that and other steeper routes in that area in particular.<br />
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Colder tomorrow which should help improve conditions a bit as well.<br />
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Abb from Bollard</div>
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Dorsal Arete etc..</div>
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Central Buttress Area</div>
Paddy Cave (MIC)http://www.blogger.com/profile/07135428057983328346noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3803065353848823956.post-51576797895090020382014-01-09T22:32:00.000+00:002014-01-09T22:32:33.685+00:00Ben Nevis, Ledge Route 09-01-14<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px;">Great day on the Ben today, freeze line was down last night so damp snow was generally solid. Lots of snow cover, we did Ledge Route looking at some mountaineering rope-work. Teams on various routes, Green Gully I think, some routes on the Douglas Boulder climbed, Tower Ridge etc. Loads to go at if the freeze line stays down, harder mixed routes looking good as well...</span><br />
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Douglas Boulder</div>
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No.5 Gully debris!</div>
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The Comb, notice big crown wall down and right...</div>
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Ledge Route</div>
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Paddy Cave (MIC)http://www.blogger.com/profile/07135428057983328346noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3803065353848823956.post-73865915684121008372014-01-08T22:08:00.001+00:002014-01-08T22:08:31.119+00:00SCNL 08-01-14Big depth of snow in Lochan today, all needs good freeze then many routes will be good fairly quickly... We did Dorsal Arete which was good, Scabbard Chimney climbed also today. One team bailed off Central Ordinary Route perhaps due to unfrozen turf... No one else in the Corrie today.<br />
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Looks a bit colder tomorrow and weekend so could be worth a look?!<br />
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Paddy Cave (MIC)http://www.blogger.com/profile/07135428057983328346noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3803065353848823956.post-51728936541792967152013-12-01T11:02:00.000+00:002013-12-01T11:26:33.223+00:00Island Peak and Ama Dablam, Nepal<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I have recently returned from a great work trip to Nepal expedition leading for <a href="http://www.adventurepeaks.com/" target="_blank">www.adventurepeaks.com</a>. We flew into Kathmandu and then travelled up the Khumbu valley to climb Island Peak (6189m) and then on to Ama Dablam (6856m). Island Peak gave a great climb as did Ama Dablam, however due to some very heavy late snow fall we couldn't summit Ama Dablam, we had a relatively short time slot and the fixing of ropes and finding good snow anchors was the issue. None the less we had a great trip and enjoyed summiting Island Peak and some great mountaineering up to the camp 2 area on Ama Dablam, as well as all the great trekking between and Nepali culture.</div>
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Arriving at Island Peak summit (6189m)</div>
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First daylight on Island Peak summit day</div>
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Lhotse South Face above...</div>
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Bridge on route to Namche</div>
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First glimpse of Ama Dablam!</div>
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Good to meet the owners of the Sherpa Adventure Gear store in Namche</div>
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Everest left and Ama Dablam on right</div>
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Lhotse South Face memorial</div>
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Yaks to Island Peak BC</div>
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The Holy bird</div>
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Early start on Island Peak</div>
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Upper glacier on Island Peak</div>
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Island Peak summit</div>
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Lakpa Sherpa tells us about his attempt on Lhotse South Face (behind)</div>
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Summit ridge of Island Peak, Ama Dablam north ridge behind</div>
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The infamous Yeti skull and hand at Monastery in Pangboche Upper (allegedly) </div>
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Carving in Monastery</div>
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Prayer wheels</div>
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Ama Dablam from BC</div>
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Jumar practice on the boulder near Ama Dablam BC</div>
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Mule loads arrive (not on little one)</div>
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On way to Ama ABC</div>
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Yak camp, or ABC, on Ama<br />
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<b><i>My photos ended at this point when my camera took the quick way off from the camp 1 fixed ropes!</i></b><br />
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This is a shot I took of camp 2 from a previous expedition though and is around this years highpoint for our team...</div>
Paddy Cave (MIC)http://www.blogger.com/profile/07135428057983328346noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3803065353848823956.post-65359207268285875812013-08-21T23:17:00.004+01:002013-08-21T23:53:16.681+01:00Climbing, Gorges, Abseiling and Media...We've had a variety of great courses running recently from private guiding on some of the Lake Districts classic mountain rock climbs, instructional scrambling courses and multi activity group events...<br />
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The last few days we were joined by Steve from <a href="http://movieit.co.uk/" target="_blank">movieit.co.uk</a> who has been putting together some great movies using various innovative filming techniques including a drone (remote helicopter) with camera attached. The main aim is to produce incredibly fast turn around films for presentations after events or for promotional purposes as well as delivering aerial shots from unique angles, something that could be useful to a range of customers... have a look at their site using the above link. <br />
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Here are some stills from the group Steve joined us with over the last few days...<br />
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Church Beck</div>
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Cathedral Quarry</div>
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Langdale Climbing</div>
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<span id="goog_462461792"></span><span id="goog_462461793"></span><br />Paddy Cave (MIC)http://www.blogger.com/profile/07135428057983328346noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3803065353848823956.post-29923831110497414422013-08-01T19:36:00.000+01:002013-08-01T19:36:09.335+01:00Recent CoursesWe have had a number of great technical courses running recently and have been lucky with generally great weather. I have put a selection of photos together of some of our recent outings when I've managed to pull the camera out...<div>
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Paddy Cave (MIC)http://www.blogger.com/profile/07135428057983328346noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3803065353848823956.post-35643707922364462652013-07-04T15:25:00.000+01:002013-07-04T15:25:15.088+01:00Summer Courses - places availableLots of great 'Summer Courses' coming up, some still with spaces and the chance to join a course with others meaning great value as the cost is shared!<div>
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Coming up we have a - </div>
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<b> 'Learn to Lead Climb'</b> course with 1 space - 1 Day - dates flexible - Lake District £80</div>
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<b>'Technical Scrambling Skills' </b>course with 1 space - 10/11th July - Langdale £150 for 2 days/£75 to join 1 day.</div>
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See our website for full details of other courses available - <a href="http://www.mountaincircles.com/" target="_blank">Mountain Circles</a></div>
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Its been a busy spell with all sorts of weather coming through! Some photos below of a recent course we ran in Scotland for Ivan and Bobby taking in Tower Ridge in much better weather than expected and then using Polldubh Crags for a training day on day 2 to hide from the wet and windy weather which came in. We covered lots of skills at Polldubh which are useful to add to your 'bag of tools' when looking to become independent in your climbing and to be able to sort out any un-expected situations that could arise... We looked at abb retreat and set up, backing up abb anchors, hoisting a 2nd, climbing a rope using prusiks, placing gear as well as getting some big boot climbing in on the classic route 'The Gutter'. Thanks for the photos Bobby!</div>
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Ben Nevis North face</div>
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Pitch out of the Douglas Gap</div>
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Just before the Eastern Traverse</div>
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The tunnel - snowed over for most of the winter</div>
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Just after the Tower Gap</div>
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Day 2 on the 'Gutter' at Polldubh Crags</div>
Paddy Cave (MIC)http://www.blogger.com/profile/07135428057983328346noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3803065353848823956.post-89052713022355169772013-06-06T12:53:00.000+01:002013-06-06T12:55:21.892+01:00Great Weather in the Lakes - Summer CoursesWe are finally getting a consistent run of great weather in the Lakes for our summer courses. It has generally been fairly mixed, despite a lot of unsettled weather there has been some great days for going high up to climb classic routes on the likes of Dow Crag. This last week has brought our first consistent run of really settled weather of the summer really, its sunny and the crags are dry! <br />
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We have had various courses running but the last few days have been particularly good. I have been out with some folk doing an article about some classic scrambling and easy climbing in the Lakes for a well known mag. We stayed at Black Sail Hut and had a day on Napes Needle taking in the classic Wasdale Crack (HS) and the Wasdale Roof (E3 5C) for a little interest on the side! We also had a wander up Sphinx Ridge and on to Gable.<br />
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Remoteness in the Lake District, the Black Sail Hut</div>
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Napes Needle</div>
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The Sphinx looking over Wasdale</div>
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Yesterday we headed for the high level route over to Pillar Rock, we climbed the classic scramble/climb Slab and Notch (M) route onto the Rock, then abseiled into the Jordan Gap followed by a quick ascent of the Pisgah to complete the round. This is a really great mountaineering route with a interesting approach and can be finished with a quick detour to the top of Pillar itself. Pillar Rock has an almost unique feel to it, there's a definite touch of the 'Alpine' about it set high above the forests of Ennerdale.<br />
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Morning visitors at the Hut</div>
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Pillar Rock</div>
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Exposure on the Slab and Notch route</div>
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With the great weather continuing we will be running lots of summer courses in the Lakes and on Skye so please get in touch with any inquiries...<br />
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All our courses are on our site at <a href="http://www.mountaincircles.com/" target="_blank">Mountain Circles</a>Paddy Cave (MIC)http://www.blogger.com/profile/07135428057983328346noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3803065353848823956.post-10458564131629674562013-03-29T23:56:00.000+00:002013-03-29T23:56:58.595+00:00Raven Crag Gully 29-03-13Brilliant conditions on the classic Raven Crag Gully ice-falls today. We were out for a 'Cold Climbs' route today and on hearing this was in it seemed too good to miss, it was of course fairly busy but moved along OK with everyone enjoying a very social atmosphere.<br />
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I think this must be one of the best ice routes I've done in the Lakes and is justifiably popular and great value! The mixed lower pitches were also great with the upper ice-fall as the finale.<br />
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Raven Crag Gully IV/4(5)***</div>
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1st Pitch</div>
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Main Pitch</div>
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Borrowdale</div>
Paddy Cave (MIC)http://www.blogger.com/profile/07135428057983328346noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3803065353848823956.post-42165524777416605792013-03-28T22:43:00.000+00:002013-03-28T22:43:04.793+00:00First Ascent of 'Fragile Mind' VIII/9, BowfellToday I went up to Bowfell with Tom Hodgkin to see what was looking good. North Buttress was by far the best option and many steep mixed routes were looking good on there, also Cambridge Crag was fairly plastered. Fight or Flight was as white as I've seen it... Bowfell Buttress had snow on the ledges but looked stripped where steep. There was loads of mad snow formations about and the approach along the climbers traverse was a bit dodgy in places, I'd recommend a different approach for now... We walked out by Mickleden which was quick...<br />
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We climbed a link up of a couple of different routes, the main crux pitch being unclimbed in winter. The route climbs the arete right of Soul Vacation VIII/8. The crux pitch of the route is also the crux pitch of the summer E4 5C Mindprobe. We started at the extreme left end of the bay/shelf from which routes such as Skint and Single start. This avoids the first pitch of Mindprobe which didn't look like a logical winter pitch. The majority of the first pitch of Soul Vacation could also be climbed to gain our starting belay and add another pitch to the route...<br />
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After the main pitch of Mindprobe we finished up the top pitch of the existing winter route Fragile Existence VII/8, hence the name 'Fragile Mind'. The crux pitch which is E4 in summer gave an awesome winter pitch, small hooks up thin shallow cracks climb a steep groove above a short overhang, small hooks and spaced small gear gives an absorbing pitch and one which was hard to grade, as its not massively long I suggested VIII/9? The top pitch of Mindprobe might also be possible in winter and would give another hard pitch to this route. The route was climbed ground up and attempted on-sight but unfortunately lobbed off the tenuous hooks on the crux pitch twice.<br />
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<i>Fragile Mind VIII/9, North Bu</i><i>ttress, Bowfell.</i><br />
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<i>P1 - (9) From the extreme left of the bay/shelf below 'Skint and Single' step left around the arete, climb a short corner and climb directly up through a short overhang to gain the parallel cracks running up the steep groove. Follow these on thin hooks with some small gear possible. Step right when possible onto an obvious ledge and around the arete to belay, this is the same belay used by Fragile Existence. </i><br />
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<i>P2 - (7) Follow the top pitch of Fragile Existence....</i><i><br /></i><br />
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Fragile Mind VIII/9</div>
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Snow scoop below the Buttress</div>
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Crux pitch</div>
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North Buttress</div>
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Crux groove</div>
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Scafell</div>
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Bowfell Buttress</div>
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South Gully tracked</div>
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Another view of North Buttress</div>
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<br />Paddy Cave (MIC)http://www.blogger.com/profile/07135428057983328346noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3803065353848823956.post-6546259263766010752013-03-26T23:48:00.000+00:002013-03-26T23:48:17.922+00:00Crowberry Gully, Buachaille Etive Mor 26-03-13Brilliant conditions today on the Buachaille, the rock was plastered and the wind has scoured away the majority of the fresh snow. Some deeper snow up top and on descent into the coire but generally seems OK and the descent down Coire na Tulaich is tracked and fast. Crowberry Gully is in brilliant condition with hard old scoured snow and just enough ice, but not too much!<br />
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A brilliant classic route....<br />
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Today was day 2 working for <a href="http://www.westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk/" target="_blank">www.westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk</a><br />
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Crowberry Gully IV/4***</div>
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Coire na Tulaich</div>
Paddy Cave (MIC)http://www.blogger.com/profile/07135428057983328346noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3803065353848823956.post-28025067793267861142013-03-25T22:05:00.002+00:002013-03-25T22:05:54.796+00:00No.6 Gully, Aonach Dubh 25-03-13Great conditions on Aonach Dubh today. We climbed No.6 Gully IV/4*** which was in great condition all the way. Some avoidable slab about and the descent into Coire nam Beith was fine and quick.... Much better weather now, wind has calmed, and lots of routes are looking great!<br />
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Any one thinking of driving to the top car park for Ben Nevis north face will be best calling the Forestry Commission first as most of the access track is blocked by fallen trees from Saturday.<br />
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I was working for <a href="http://www.westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk/" target="_blank">www.westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk</a> today.<br />
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No.6 Gully IV/4***</div>
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'Deep Cut Chimney' looked good...</div>
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Church Door Buttress etc.</div>
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'Elliots Downfall', not touched down...</div>
Paddy Cave (MIC)http://www.blogger.com/profile/07135428057983328346noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3803065353848823956.post-91148425527283277132013-03-24T11:14:00.000+00:002013-03-24T11:14:36.806+00:00SCNL Glencoe, 23-03-13Snow down to sea level last night and wild winds lashing the highlands gave Glencoe a transformation today with snow drifting across the road and airborne snow from valley level up. We were the only visitors up to Lochan today which put on a great show of full on winter conditions. The crags on route which I'd thought might be a little sheltered were getting blasted by returning winds and there wasn't really any shelter to be had once out the car door where goggles went on and stayed on until back at the car again. Loads of mixed routes well snowed up, very cold, big areas of windslab about but also hard wind scoured snow around much of the crag apron from what I could see. We did some of Dorsal Arete before the lobbying started to bail down the Gully, so we bailed off down. We also looked at some lead climbing on a small crag on the way out before heading for the car.<br />
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Good work Ivan and Bobby, another good day out, you always bring the best weather!<br />
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Things are due to settle a bit now from Monday so there should be some good conditions about with many lower venues possibly giving good conditions. Whilst there is a lot of wind blown snow in places the actual amount that came down wasn't that much, many areas will likely be wind scoured with areas of slab down wind, lots of cross-loading as well. 'Smoking the White Owl' IV/5 below the top Gondola station at the Nevis Range has seen a good few ascents and is an option for lower ice.<br />
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<br />Paddy Cave (MIC)http://www.blogger.com/profile/07135428057983328346noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3803065353848823956.post-71006755571498251552013-03-19T18:54:00.000+00:002013-03-19T19:25:02.593+00:00Ski Touring, Helvellyn area 19-03-13Today I went for a ski tour over Helvellyn via Swirral Edge, after a few descents I ended up at Red Tarn and went over Catseye Cam to finish with a descent back to Greenside. <br />
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There was a fair bit of snow about and above Red Tarn the slopes were well loaded up, in particular the north facing slopes, the north sides of Striding and Swirral Edges were holding a lot of snow. There's a lot going on up there, some areas scoured to the old snow (top of Swirral is hard old snow for a few metres), some areas of wind-slab, some areas of deep fresh snow that hasn't yet been wind blown, soft cornices etc. I doubt that much of the fresh snow that's there will blow around too much as its heavy and slightly damp snow generally. It felt much warmer than forecast on the summits and I'd say it was only just freezing on top. There was also next to no wind blowing, so no fresh slab forming today. That said it has been windy at some point and there are drifts and definite areas of older slab, some of this easily slipping away on the old layer of hard snow below.<br />
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The skis today were the way to travel and it would have been hard going without them. I had fresh tracks shortly after leaving Greenside for the whole day and saw no one all day bar a few at Greenside. Its not often to be the only person up to and out of the Red Tarn area all day, and with everything snowed out and no track anywhere to see it had a nice wildness about it today, great to have the hills to your self occasionally in the Lakes....<br />
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Greenside</div>
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Route to Red Tarn</div>
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Helvellyn Trig point</div>
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Helvellyn X bench </div>
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In terms of climbing, the old snow/ice will still be good but very buried. The easy mixed is also buried and I'd not be totally sure about the turf?! The steep rock was black on Viking Buttress as far as I could tell. With careful route choice a moderate mixed route might be an option, steep enough not to be buried but not so steep as to have shed all its snow etc, hard to say... The approach and exit slopes from routes will also be worth treating with care. Ski touring will be great, despite the snow being a little heavy there's a good covering, better viz tomorrow will help for the big turns!<br />
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The bottom of the crags above Red Tarn.</div>
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Viking Buttress base, the steeper wall of the crag just visible above.</div>
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All in all there is scope for a great winter day out but with fairly careful route choice and flexible planning required... and probably some trail breaking!<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><i>Last Friday...</i></b></span><br />
Last Friday we had a great day out with 2 Intro to Snow and Ice climbing courses running and a Navigation course also. Steve and I went up to Great End for the climbing which gave a full winter experience once above the freeze line! Kate, Sophie, Donal and Mark all took the full winter experience in their stride! Steve went up Central Gully Left III, and I climbed SE Gully III. Both were in good condition but will be loaded up now I'd guess... Alex also had a good day out with Ellen navigating.<br />
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Here's a photo Mark sent through of the crag on Friday, the weather cleared for the walk out. Theres been lots more snow since this was taken!</div>
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<br />Paddy Cave (MIC)http://www.blogger.com/profile/07135428057983328346noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3803065353848823956.post-85708061204168598062013-03-17T10:20:00.000+00:002013-03-19T18:00:32.602+00:00Winter Courses still AvailableThere is still good winter conditions in the Lake District and Scotland so we will continue offering these courses and days out over the coming month. Some courses will be possible for longer so get in touch for details or to discuss conditions...<br />
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Visit our site for other courses/info - <a href="http://www.mountaincircles.com/" target="_blank">www.mountaincircles.com</a><br />
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<br />Paddy Cave (MIC)http://www.blogger.com/profile/07135428057983328346noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3803065353848823956.post-22377022316917335262013-03-14T15:31:00.000+00:002013-03-14T16:07:49.292+00:00Dry Tooling Performance Weekend Course 26th-28th April 2013<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSeIggxXbXIXssIpzrScBpFQsB2l_qK1x1gVDYRwvVIdfySXqMOrTNxpGCjpetKOPBJcBbGzAZfq7PIiZzVin8Rd_x5bp2oNO43Fnp5OIqL0UxJXDRvzl6e7ffionO5BhSw9pWH9CMrVo/s1600/drytool-perfom1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="128" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSeIggxXbXIXssIpzrScBpFQsB2l_qK1x1gVDYRwvVIdfySXqMOrTNxpGCjpetKOPBJcBbGzAZfq7PIiZzVin8Rd_x5bp2oNO43Fnp5OIqL0UxJXDRvzl6e7ffionO5BhSw9pWH9CMrVo/s640/drytool-perfom1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #999999; font-size: x-large;"><b><i>This will be a unique opportunity to receive coaching and instruction from top performing mixed climbers. Whether you want to learn about the best ways to train for winter climbing, get into dry tooling specific climbing or just want to have a go and try out the latest equipment, this could be for you! No prior experience required...</i></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #999999;"><b><i>The diverse new dry tooling dedicated venue, <a href="http://www.mountaincircles.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/The%20%27Works%27%20Drytooling%20Venue%20-%20Info" target="_blank">The Works</a> in the Lake District </i></b></span><b style="color: #999999;"><i>will be the venue for the days out with full board and accommodation included as well as evening lectures and much more...</i></b></span></div>
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<b style="color: #999999;"><i><span style="font-size: large;">Please get in touch for full details...</span></i></b></div>
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<span style="color: #999999; font-size: large;"><b><i>info@mountaincircles.com</i></b></span></div>
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Paddy Cave (MIC)http://www.blogger.com/profile/07135428057983328346noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3803065353848823956.post-66886778453663011732013-03-12T21:17:00.000+00:002013-03-12T21:22:25.859+00:00Mountain Skills - Expedition MedicineGreat weather on the fells today, blue skies to start and cold all day. Easy routes good around the Lakes for winter climbing, Great End looked great, Gable looked black and surprisingly thin on snow cover. The snow line has generally risen today across the Lakes and the Pennines certainly looked a lot whiter.<br />
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I was out doing a general mountain skills day with <a href="http://www.expeditionmedicine.co.uk/">www.expeditionmedicine.co.uk</a> as a part of the great week course they run in the Lakes each year.<br />
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Great End and Gable today</div>
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Gable</div>
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Rope Stretcher</div>
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ML level rope-work </div>
Paddy Cave (MIC)http://www.blogger.com/profile/07135428057983328346noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3803065353848823956.post-39932360220284140122013-03-10T11:43:00.000+00:002013-03-10T11:43:11.097+00:00The Cairngorms 05-08/03/13<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I've been working all week in the Cairngorms running a winter climbing course for <a href="http://www.tollymore.com/">www.tollymore.com</a></div>
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Its been a great week of changing conditions and climbing and the team have been good crack and met the winter challenge head on...</div>
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A change in the weather on Thursday brought all the steep mixed routes back into great condition, most other routes were already looking good, though there is now a reasonable avalanche threat in many areas. We moved away from the Runnel on Thursday due to the amount of fresh debris at its base.</div>
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A selection of shots from the week below.</div>
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Patey's Route IV/5 **</div>
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Abb descent...</div>
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The Vent</div>
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Looking at ice threads</div>
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Lead climbing instruction</div>
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Steep mixed looking good again!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw-ZBdXbUL6N8dyyhhXbXBJfZoxy5HrX9-Yx3EN6nJh_CJHYLsymCXPeeZbDVzy3Yz7lbHQRc_MFu5GPW2C2t84KLgu-uihcrsKM6pZA7TuTNSbxuhvZgTjVyXv-VLVZOj0sli6ILJ2CU/s1600/IMG_5849.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw-ZBdXbUL6N8dyyhhXbXBJfZoxy5HrX9-Yx3EN6nJh_CJHYLsymCXPeeZbDVzy3Yz7lbHQRc_MFu5GPW2C2t84KLgu-uihcrsKM6pZA7TuTNSbxuhvZgTjVyXv-VLVZOj0sli6ILJ2CU/s320/IMG_5849.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Good ice on The Vent</div>
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The Seam IV/5 ***</div>
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Celebration brawl at the top... Concentrate! </div>
Paddy Cave (MIC)http://www.blogger.com/profile/07135428057983328346noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3803065353848823956.post-71343611729974048452013-03-04T21:18:00.000+00:002013-03-04T21:20:16.732+00:00Cairngorms 04-03-13First day today of a 5 day Climbing Course for <a href="http://www.tollymore.com/">www.tollymore.com</a><br />
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Great day in the Corries today and after a freeze overnight the snow was hard and well frozen again. Easy to moderate mixed routes looking OK and gullies and ice routes generally were good, steep mixed not in...<br />
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After a morning of skills and ice axe arresting we climbed The Mirror Direct IV/4 which gave a great first taste of winter climbing and the chance to look over an abb retreat from the top of the main pitch. Good easy conditions on the route with big hooks all the way...<br />
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The Mirror Direct IV/4**</div>
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<br />Paddy Cave (MIC)http://www.blogger.com/profile/07135428057983328346noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3803065353848823956.post-36529087241894535672013-02-28T21:26:00.000+00:002013-02-28T21:26:34.900+00:00Lakes Conditions, Dollywaggon and Tarn Crag. 28-02-13<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Once again the weather spoilt us today, surely its time for a bit of clag, wind and sleet?! Blue sky and sun in soft-shell is getting too normal....</div>
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In terms of conditions there is still some great climbing to be had, the bright sunshine is still taking its toll on some routes and anything in the sun is basically in summer condition. But out of the sun its a different story, the snow and turf is still frozen hard after another very cold night and there is still plenty of ice. The rock is continuing to strip back and even out of the sun on Dollywaggon there was a bit less general whiteness than 2 days back, this said some routes were still in great condition. I was out with Jill who was keen to have a look at a Cold Climbs route so having been up 2 days ago I new Chock Gully would be good. It was definitely a case of keeping the faith as the crag looked sun bathed but once on the route and into the gully itself the route was in great condition, frozen solid throughout and with great ice on the main pitch. A great route with interest on every pitch and tricky for the grade... After that we headed to Dollywaggon and climbed Thrash Corner, another brilliant little route with good ice and turf throughout and a thin icy corner, its given IV/5 but is easy for the grade with the ice on the corner...</div>
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2 great routes and classics of the Lakes!</div>
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Chock Gully IV/4 (5?)**</div>
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Chock stone after the main crux pitch down below this one...</div>
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Thrash Corner IV/5**</div>
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Pitch 1</div>
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Crux corner</div>
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<br />Paddy Cave (MIC)http://www.blogger.com/profile/07135428057983328346noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3803065353848823956.post-50629493143934136372013-02-27T22:30:00.000+00:002013-02-27T22:30:46.683+00:00Scafell Ice 27-02-13<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Today gave another fantastic day out in the Lakes, ice climbing and bright sun gave a continental feel to the day! When will it end?</div>
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Ed and I headed up to see what was looking good on Scafell Crag, I was surprised at how much was stripped away. Bar the easy gullies there was very little to consider climbing unless in rock shoes! I had thought perhaps Steep Ghyll or Moss Ghyll might have been good but both were far too thin to get on. The one definite exception was the ice to the right of the Shamrock, The Direct Route cascades looking great from a long way off. We headed for there and climbed 2 different pillars that had touched down out of the gully on the left. Both were really good pitches of steep ice and well worth the trip. All said there was probably more choice in the Helvellyn/Dollywaggon area yesterday with some mixed options as well. </div>
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Another great day of good ice and sun with everything well frozen in the shade.</div>
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Thanks to Ed Luke for the photos. <a href="http://www.edluke.com/">www.edluke.com</a></div>
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Abb descent back in for a 2nd route...</div>
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Ed on the 2nd route</div>
Paddy Cave (MIC)http://www.blogger.com/profile/07135428057983328346noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3803065353848823956.post-20312752543845075442013-02-26T21:00:00.000+00:002013-02-26T21:00:02.450+00:00Lakes Conditions, Helvellyn area. 26-02-13<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Still some great conditions to be had, mainly gullies and ice but some mixed holding on in! Due to bright sunshine anything that catches any sun is suffering a bit. Out of the sun the snow is frozen hard and many routes are in great condition. Today I went to Falcon Crag and Chock Gully which was thin until into the gully proper, there was then good ice up to mixed moves around the crux chock. After that I did Thrash Corner on Dollywaggon North Crag which was in great condition, bomber snow, turf and ice, others were on Dolly Mixture which looked good also. Then it was over to Jogebar Gully on Nethermost Pike which was OK where steep and shaded and had some good ice but the lower part was suffering in the sun a bit. Then a quick visit to Helvellyn and Bladerunner was well worth it with some of the best conditions on the route I've seen, lots of ice in the lower groove. All the gullies looked good, V-corner was climbed also, VB looked quite stripped but could be OK just about via the classic line? certainly the turf and snow on it will be good. All this was topped off with another day of bright sunshine...</div>
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Dollywaggon North Crag</div>
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Viking Buttress Area, Helvellyn</div>
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<br />Paddy Cave (MIC)http://www.blogger.com/profile/07135428057983328346noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3803065353848823956.post-58397177547799369442013-02-23T23:08:00.000+00:002013-02-23T23:08:40.552+00:00Lakes Conditions, Blea Water 23-02-13<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Blea Tarn Gill, left hand fall</div>
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2 pillars on crag at top left of the main Gill</div>
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Mad ice formations</div>
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Looking down the right hand pillar</div>
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Birkett's Gully, upper section</div>
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Some good ice about the Lakes and the snow condition is generally good and well frozen. Great End is meant to be good with ice etc forming well, Central Gully and variations possible and Window Gully and the Icefall finish climbable. Lots of other bits around I'd guess, routes on Tarn/Falcon crag have been climbed, ie. Chock Gully, and also routes on Dollywaggon Crag.<br />
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Today I went for a quick look at the Blea Tarn Icefalls, a few routes were climbable, the ice varies and is thin in places but was also very good with a bit of selective route choice. I climbed the upper part of Birkett's Gully (the narrows upwards) and it was generally really good, plenty of good ice about to link up and snow fairly solid. I also did the left hand main icefall on Blea Water Gill, the right hand option looked thin... Above and left of the top of the Gill is a small buttress with 2 pillars, the left was thin with a big ice umbrella at the top but the right one was good, I climbed that at about III and the ice was very good. The ice pillar on the same level as the main falls of Blea Water Gill and out to the left was not doable just yet.<br />
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Lots of other bits of ice around the Cove which could be worth a look. Access to the car park is possible despite the road closed signs.<br />
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<br />Paddy Cave (MIC)http://www.blogger.com/profile/07135428057983328346noreply@blogger.com0