Reports - winter conditions and activity

Friday, October 05, 2012

Manaslu (8,156m) Expedition 2012, Nepal.

I have just returned from an expedition to Manaslu in Nepal.  I was leading the expedition for www.adventurepeaks.com

Manaslu, Nepal.  8,156m.

Manaslu is in the Lamjung District of Nepal and is the 8th highest peak in the world and one of the worlds 8000m peaks.  It has a reputation for being a peak that is of moderate difficulty technically but with reasonably high objective dangers.

Our Puja site at Manaslu Base Camp

 Our Base Camp Mess Tent

 High Camp 1

 Crevasse ladder crossing

Camp 2, Camp 3 is up behind...

Our trip lasted 34 days, about a week shorter than planned.   Our early finish was the result of a massive avalanche on the 23rd September on Manaslu.  The scale of the avalanche was so that it took out camp 3, and about 3 hours walk down the glacier, it also stripped some tents from camp 2.  The irony of the situation was that since last season and up to that day camp 3 was empty or quiet, that day a large amount of people made it to camp 3 due to a break in the bad weather and it was that night that a massive lump of serac came off above the camp and triggered the slopes  above.  There were 11 killed by the avalanche and about 15 or so flown to hospital in Kathmandu.  The teams effected were mainly European, Austrian and French largely.  One Sherpa was also killed.

 The serac fell from the area circled and triggered the large slab avalanche, the crown wall is clearly visible.

The path of the avalanche, the camps are marked.

The team I was leading consisted of 2 Sherpas and 2 members and myself.  We had moved from camp to camp up the mountain on the days leading up to the accident.  We arrived in camp 3 on the 22nd, our tents went up and kit was stored, the plan was to spend the night at camp 3 for our acclimatisation and then drop to Base Camp on the 23rd for a rest before our summit attempt.  However, our plan took a last minute change....  One of the team members woke with a headache at camp 2, it had not improved during the day and by the afternoon of the 22nd we made the decision that the member should not go higher, and then soon after we decided to descend to Base Camp in-case the headache should worsen into the night and become more serious.  Headaches at altitude can be an early sign of altitude sickness (AMS) and potentially a Cerebral Oedema (HACE) so are taken seriously...  Following this decision the Sherpa team and other member agreed to descend as well from camp 3 so we could re-group in Base Camp and make a plan for our continued attempt.  We made it to Base that evening.  The following day we woke early to the sound of radios buzzing with messages and the call had come in for help, the avalanche having hit camp 3 during the night.

Flattened tents at Camp 2, our tents were gone

The day that followed was a day of confusion.  We took our stretcher and medical supplies along with oxygen and a respirator to the heli pad where the casualties were coming in and needed help.  Following this was the recovery of the bodies, 2 were not found before the initial search was called off.

 Helicopter shipping casualties back to Base Camp

The Pinnacle false summit from the icefall on route to Camp 2

Our team needless to say felt very lucky, a headache changing the course of things.  We lost 2 camps and a lot of kit.  We replaced the equipment over the following days and made the decision to go back up the mountain to see how things would pan out as regards a continued summit attempt.  On the day when we moved to camp 2 the decision was made to finish the expedition due to a few reasons, too much kit to go up with an imminent weather window and no time for carries being the main one.

Dendi Sherpa with a big load during the attempt to re-stock the high camps

The memories of the trip as a whole will off-course be mixed due to the large loss of life that took place on Manaslu this year.  That said, the mountain still offered some great days before the accident and the 10 days of trekking take you through a fantastic journey up one of the less trafficed valleys of Nepal.  Starting in warm tropical forests and finishing at Samaguan at the toe of the Manaslu Glacier is a fantastic journey in its own right.

 Thamel, Kathmandu

 Shrine in Kathmandu

 The road to Arughat and the start of the trek to Manaslu

 Mules transporting our kit to Samaguan

 End of the day in Lho


Back in Kathmandu for a rest

Thoughts go out to the families and many affected by this accident and to the family and friends of Dawa Sherpa, our Sherpa on last years Baruntse Expedition, a top Sherpa and great person to have had with us in the past.

Dawa Sherpa on the left and his friend Sonam, Mera Peak 2011.

Monday, July 30, 2012

Skye - Scrambling Course 30-07-12

Just had a few great days on Skye.  I was running a Scrambling Course for www.westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk

We had a very mixed forecast but the days out proved to be better than expected, that said we did have some heavy showers with hail and a cool NW wind.  We had an instructional day on the Spur on Sgurr an Fheadain, we did the Coire Lagan round taking in Sgurr Alasdair, Sgurr Thearlaich and Sgurr Mhic Choinnich via Collies Ledge.  On the final day we did the Inn Pinn, this day was a bit of a surprise as we had expected the weather to be much worse than it was and we had a few 'plan b's'...

 Sgurr Alasdair and the section we just traversed...

 The Pinnacle East Ridge


 Collies Ledge

 Abb before Bealach Mhic Choinnich

 Coire Lagan

 High on the Spur of Sgurr an Fheadain



Thanks to Ivan and Bobby for their enthusiasm in the face of some real Cuillin weather!

Wednesday, June 13, 2012

New routes on the Isle of Coll



Last week we spent a week on the Isle of Coll off the Scottish west coast.


Coll is a rocky island with some of the best beaches in the UK.  There is a mass of bouldering and a few crags that are worth roping up for...




 Good views of Rum and Skye beyond




The beacon fire


We climbed a range of quality existing routes and added some new routes, there were, and still are some great unclimbed lines on Coll.  The routes are on perfect quality rock and usually full of interest with a boldish feel!


3 of 8 new routes we did on the Isle of Coll last week. Coll has perfect quality rock and the routes are never long but always in a dramatic situation. Due to very few climbers making the trip to Coll there were still some great unclimbed lines up to about E3 5C.



 New E2/E3?...



 New HVS

 FA of the arete of 'Lost Lands' E2

New routes in red and the one existing route on the crag in blue



Thursday, May 31, 2012

Skye - 'Classic Rock' and the 'Inn Pinn'

We have just had an awesome stint on Skye!  The weather has been like nothing I can remember, hot and clear with views over the western Isles.  Climbing on crags such as Sgurr Alasdairs South Buttress and being too hot in a t-shirt is new to me...

Amongst the various outings there was an early morning ascent of the Inn Pinn for Skye Guides, Mike Lates, a 'Classic Rock' day on the Cioch  Face clocking up 14 stars, a 4 star route on Sgurr Alasdair and a coastal outing at Kilt Rock....

The past few days were Skye at its best, when like this there is probably no better place to be climbing in the world!!!

 Thats what we want to see!

 The team from Glasgow on the Pinn! (I was working for Skye Guides this day)

 Mike and Client on Mhic Choinnich

 Action on the Pinn summit block

 Sgurr Alasdair summit after climbing 'Commando Crack' HS ****

 'Integrity' VS **** on the Cioch Face

 Loch Lagan

 The Cioch

 Rescue!

 'Arrow Route' ***, fairly wild at Diff

Kilt Rock

Abbing in to the routes

 'Tartan Terror', a great 45m pitch of steep crack climbing

 'Clandestine' VS *** picks the line of least resistance up the steep gully wall